It's still raining!!! And the cold has arrived. Yes, I moved to Africa at the beginning of winter,and am just now realizing that I underpacked. For anyone out there planning on moving to Botswana, here are the things I wish I had brought: 3 more plain long sleeve shirts for layering, 2 pairs of leggings, more socks, sneakers, gloves, hand sanitizer, a hoodie, a rain jacket, more pajama pants, spices and seasoning, guitar chords and lyrics, a couple more very long skirts (ankle length), strap on waterproof sandals, and a scarf. I can get most of these things here of course, but I wish I'd packed them when I had them in the states.
My time is running out here at the cafe, so I'll make this quick. Everything is going well here. We spent the day in the capital doing immigration paperwork and banking stuff- very exciting. People have started to receive mail and packages, and it seems to take about 2 weeks for things to reach here from the US. I don't expect a lot of packages since it can get pretty expensive to ship things here, but since a few of you asked before I left, here's a list of care package ideas now that I'm here and know what I could use:
-stationary (to write you all letters!)
-American snacks
-taco seasoning (can't be found anywhere)
-hand sanitizer (expensive and here)
-mix cd's
-AA batteries (expensive here)
-books (surprise, surprise)
-photos/random fun things (keep it clean!)
I'm trying to save my pula, so I'll only be on the internet a couple days a week, but I'll try to update the blog whenever I can.
And...time is up!
Monday, April 26, 2010
Pula and a Baby Shower
(Written Saturday night)
Have I mentioned yet that April is supposed to be the beginning of the dry season in Botswana? Well it is, but you would never have known it in the last few days. It's rained almost every day since we arrived in Moleps, but it's usually been an afternoon shower that passes quickly. Yesterday was something different all together.
The skies had been cloudy for most of the day, but as I sat in the internet cafe after training, the skies grew prematurely dark. My time was up quickly, and as I walked out the door and looked around, my stomach dropped. It was't raining yet, but I could dark clouds looming over the ridge and lightening in the distance. I raced home, and as the skies turned eery colors and the wind picked up, I felt like Dorothy trying to outrun the twister. My host mother met me at the gate, and we ran inside the house and shut the door. I had reached home just in time. The wind howled and raindrops hit our tin roof like bullets. In a moment of impulse and sheer curiousity, I stuck my head out the door- and was immediately rewarded with a face full of wet sand picked up by the wind. I retreated back into the house, where my host mom and I were reduced to screaming at each other over the wind and rain. To get a feel for the noise level, imagine banging an old-fashioned metal garbage can with a drum stick- then multiply it by the size of your ceiling. We managed to make dinner, and went to bed on the early side. I was surprised at how easily I slept through all the noise, and only woke once for a defeated, sopping march to the flooded outhouse.
To my dismay, the rain had not ended when I woke up in the morning, and it did not stop all day. The walk to training was quite moist (I didn't bring rain gear since this is supposed to be the dry season!), and we had to hold our condom games and demonstrations inside the church instead of outdoors (a very uncomfortable situation for a practicing Catholic, let me tell you). After training, we decided to brave the rain again and walked to the lodge, where we met some current volunteers for drinks and discussion. I was excited to finally meet someone working in my program, and was thrilled to hear that she has had a very positive experience. Talking to the current volunteers has made me very excited for shadowing in a week and a half, and even more excited for site placement. I'm still struggling with a bit of homesickness, but with good news from the US (go Dad and Matthew!) and gearing up for the real thing here at training, I'm feeling pretty good.
After the lodge, I did some food shopping and walked home. I changed into dry clothes, talked to my American mom and brother on the phone, and at around dinnertime, headed out to a neighbor's baby shower. Baby showers are not really part of traditional Setswana culture at all, but a lot of people borrow the western tradition. Everyone brings a small gift wrapped in a nappy (cloth diaper)- mine was a pair of baby booties. The first hour was very much like an American baby shower. People arrived, gifts were opened, baby names were discussed, and everyone was a little bored. I felt a bit uncomfortable and out of place, and wanted to get home quickly. Then things started to get interesting. First there was a very open discussion and advice-giving session regarding the mom-to-be's situation. This child will be her fourth, and her second out of wedlock. The other women were strongly advising her not to have any more before marriage, and I was surprised but glad to hear that they included a discussion about HIV in their advice. Then food was served and eaten (traditional Setswana food, of course), and the dancing and drinking began. And these women, young and old, can DANCE. The music ranged from Kanye West to Rihanna to very traditional Setswana and African drum music, and after much urging, even I got up and danced. It's amazing how fast you can make friends when you're dancing- by the end of the night I was exhausted, but hated to leave. It is now 3am, and I'm quite sure they are still dancing and drinking the traditional Setswana beer. I hope to meet these women again when my Setswana is better.
That said, it is officially bedtime. Good night, all!
Have I mentioned yet that April is supposed to be the beginning of the dry season in Botswana? Well it is, but you would never have known it in the last few days. It's rained almost every day since we arrived in Moleps, but it's usually been an afternoon shower that passes quickly. Yesterday was something different all together.
The skies had been cloudy for most of the day, but as I sat in the internet cafe after training, the skies grew prematurely dark. My time was up quickly, and as I walked out the door and looked around, my stomach dropped. It was't raining yet, but I could dark clouds looming over the ridge and lightening in the distance. I raced home, and as the skies turned eery colors and the wind picked up, I felt like Dorothy trying to outrun the twister. My host mother met me at the gate, and we ran inside the house and shut the door. I had reached home just in time. The wind howled and raindrops hit our tin roof like bullets. In a moment of impulse and sheer curiousity, I stuck my head out the door- and was immediately rewarded with a face full of wet sand picked up by the wind. I retreated back into the house, where my host mom and I were reduced to screaming at each other over the wind and rain. To get a feel for the noise level, imagine banging an old-fashioned metal garbage can with a drum stick- then multiply it by the size of your ceiling. We managed to make dinner, and went to bed on the early side. I was surprised at how easily I slept through all the noise, and only woke once for a defeated, sopping march to the flooded outhouse.
To my dismay, the rain had not ended when I woke up in the morning, and it did not stop all day. The walk to training was quite moist (I didn't bring rain gear since this is supposed to be the dry season!), and we had to hold our condom games and demonstrations inside the church instead of outdoors (a very uncomfortable situation for a practicing Catholic, let me tell you). After training, we decided to brave the rain again and walked to the lodge, where we met some current volunteers for drinks and discussion. I was excited to finally meet someone working in my program, and was thrilled to hear that she has had a very positive experience. Talking to the current volunteers has made me very excited for shadowing in a week and a half, and even more excited for site placement. I'm still struggling with a bit of homesickness, but with good news from the US (go Dad and Matthew!) and gearing up for the real thing here at training, I'm feeling pretty good.
After the lodge, I did some food shopping and walked home. I changed into dry clothes, talked to my American mom and brother on the phone, and at around dinnertime, headed out to a neighbor's baby shower. Baby showers are not really part of traditional Setswana culture at all, but a lot of people borrow the western tradition. Everyone brings a small gift wrapped in a nappy (cloth diaper)- mine was a pair of baby booties. The first hour was very much like an American baby shower. People arrived, gifts were opened, baby names were discussed, and everyone was a little bored. I felt a bit uncomfortable and out of place, and wanted to get home quickly. Then things started to get interesting. First there was a very open discussion and advice-giving session regarding the mom-to-be's situation. This child will be her fourth, and her second out of wedlock. The other women were strongly advising her not to have any more before marriage, and I was surprised but glad to hear that they included a discussion about HIV in their advice. Then food was served and eaten (traditional Setswana food, of course), and the dancing and drinking began. And these women, young and old, can DANCE. The music ranged from Kanye West to Rihanna to very traditional Setswana and African drum music, and after much urging, even I got up and danced. It's amazing how fast you can make friends when you're dancing- by the end of the night I was exhausted, but hated to leave. It is now 3am, and I'm quite sure they are still dancing and drinking the traditional Setswana beer. I hope to meet these women again when my Setswana is better.
That said, it is officially bedtime. Good night, all!
Ga ke na mathatha....most of the time.
(Written Thursday night)
And the ups and downs continue. They don't follow any kind of pattern at all, and the downs come when I least expect them- like now, at 7pm after a regular day of Setswana lessons and HIV lectures, even after a couple hours of downtime at the beautiful stadium with other PCV's. There's nothing wrong, but it's now that I'm feeling low, instead of yesterday, when it would have made sense. I guess it's just something I'll have to get used to.
I suppose I should explain my remark about yesterday. Before you all worry, nothing terrible happened, and I'm fine- it was just a tough day. I woke up not feeling well with my stomach doing flip-flops (a common ailment among the trainees lately), and was unprepared and forgetful all day, which can be a real confidence killer. By the end of the day, I had my heart set on doing my homework and going straight to bed. However, this is the Peace Corps, and nothing ever works out the way I plan. When I got home, my host mom met me at the door and informed that I was to bath immediately and then start cooking dinner for everyone. Saying no wasn't an option, as I knew they had all bee waiting all day to eat. I haven't cried here yet, but at that moment, I came pretty close. Not that making dinner is so terrible- it's just that doing it in a strange kitchen with no preparation and while not feeling well was not exactly in my plan for the night. I went into my room, collected myself, bathed, and faced my challenge in the kitchen. I ended up making some kind of beef/tomato stew with potatos, and while I could tell that my host family wasn't exactly impressed, I was triumphant. I ate about 2 bites, put the rest away for lunch, and although my stomach was still churning, I went to bed feeling proud.
I'm sure that most of you are not reading to hear about the exploits of my stomach or the emotional rollercoaster that is PST, so I'll throw in some interesting cultural experiences, too. As I mentioned before, on Monday, we split into groups to meet the kgosis (chiefs) of the wards we are staying in. I'd imagine that most of you have no idea what a kgosi is (I didn't before coming here), so I'll explain a bit. Botswana is divided into districts, and then further divided into wards, which are very small. While the national government runs as a democratic republic, the local wards are run by kgosis, who inherit their position from their fathers. Th position of kgosi is rather like a small town mayor and judge rolled into one. He settles local disputes, promotes village development,and maintains peace in the ward. If there is an issue too large to handle in the kgotla, the police are alerted and higher officials are called in. Kgosis are very highly respected, and they are now paid by the government for their work. A kgosi can also be a woman these days, but that generally only occurs when there is no male heir to take the position.
Back to the meeting. Our meeting was held at the kgotla, an outdoor community gathering place marked by a horseshoe of upright branches in front of the kgosi's house. We dressed our best (men wear jackets and women wear long skirts), and met the kgosi, the counselor, and the village development committee representative. Through interpreters, we spoke at length about the role of the kgosi and the VDC, HIV/AIDS issues in the community (including access to testing,stigma, contribution of alcoholism, etc),and development projects. I was very impressed with how willing everyone was to address some very difficult topics, and to hear how highly Peace Corps Volunteers are thought of in my ward. Other volunteers had different experiences, but I came away from our meeting feeling very optimistic (and relieved that I remembered all the cultural protocol!).
And the ups and downs continue. They don't follow any kind of pattern at all, and the downs come when I least expect them- like now, at 7pm after a regular day of Setswana lessons and HIV lectures, even after a couple hours of downtime at the beautiful stadium with other PCV's. There's nothing wrong, but it's now that I'm feeling low, instead of yesterday, when it would have made sense. I guess it's just something I'll have to get used to.
I suppose I should explain my remark about yesterday. Before you all worry, nothing terrible happened, and I'm fine- it was just a tough day. I woke up not feeling well with my stomach doing flip-flops (a common ailment among the trainees lately), and was unprepared and forgetful all day, which can be a real confidence killer. By the end of the day, I had my heart set on doing my homework and going straight to bed. However, this is the Peace Corps, and nothing ever works out the way I plan. When I got home, my host mom met me at the door and informed that I was to bath immediately and then start cooking dinner for everyone. Saying no wasn't an option, as I knew they had all bee waiting all day to eat. I haven't cried here yet, but at that moment, I came pretty close. Not that making dinner is so terrible- it's just that doing it in a strange kitchen with no preparation and while not feeling well was not exactly in my plan for the night. I went into my room, collected myself, bathed, and faced my challenge in the kitchen. I ended up making some kind of beef/tomato stew with potatos, and while I could tell that my host family wasn't exactly impressed, I was triumphant. I ate about 2 bites, put the rest away for lunch, and although my stomach was still churning, I went to bed feeling proud.
I'm sure that most of you are not reading to hear about the exploits of my stomach or the emotional rollercoaster that is PST, so I'll throw in some interesting cultural experiences, too. As I mentioned before, on Monday, we split into groups to meet the kgosis (chiefs) of the wards we are staying in. I'd imagine that most of you have no idea what a kgosi is (I didn't before coming here), so I'll explain a bit. Botswana is divided into districts, and then further divided into wards, which are very small. While the national government runs as a democratic republic, the local wards are run by kgosis, who inherit their position from their fathers. Th position of kgosi is rather like a small town mayor and judge rolled into one. He settles local disputes, promotes village development,and maintains peace in the ward. If there is an issue too large to handle in the kgotla, the police are alerted and higher officials are called in. Kgosis are very highly respected, and they are now paid by the government for their work. A kgosi can also be a woman these days, but that generally only occurs when there is no male heir to take the position.
Back to the meeting. Our meeting was held at the kgotla, an outdoor community gathering place marked by a horseshoe of upright branches in front of the kgosi's house. We dressed our best (men wear jackets and women wear long skirts), and met the kgosi, the counselor, and the village development committee representative. Through interpreters, we spoke at length about the role of the kgosi and the VDC, HIV/AIDS issues in the community (including access to testing,stigma, contribution of alcoholism, etc),and development projects. I was very impressed with how willing everyone was to address some very difficult topics, and to hear how highly Peace Corps Volunteers are thought of in my ward. Other volunteers had different experiences, but I came away from our meeting feeling very optimistic (and relieved that I remembered all the cultural protocol!).
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Ba Lelwapa
And now for the long-awaited description of my new Batswana family and where I live:
My mom: Kelebogile
My host mom is pretty young, maybe in her 30's, and her name means 'thank you'. She's definitely not the overly motherly, cuddly type, but I think she likes me and is happy that I'm there. She loves to dance and to help me with my homework.
My brother: Blessing
My brother is 15 years old, and he didn't speak to me for the first day or so that I was here, but he seems to have warmed up pretty quickly. I wasn't sure what to expect from a teenage Motswana, but he's a lot of fun, has good taste in music and movies, and I haven't seen any evidence of the attitude problems of a typical American teenager.
My sister: Daphney
My sister was my partner in crime the first few days I was here. As the 2 daughters, we did everything together, and she helped me through all my chores, giggling all the while. She's away at school in Gaborone now, but while she was here,it was her personal mission to make me fluent in Setswana, and spent hours going through vocabulary with me.In return, I taught her "Miss Mary Mack", which she drove the family crazy with practicing over and over again. She was very intrigued by my hair, and mystified by my hair, which she loves to touch.
My grandmother: Nonofe
My grandmother is also in Gaborone now, but while she was here, she was very sweet to me, and very concerned about my family back in the US. Her greatest wish was to meet my American mom, and she made sure to remind me to call and email her. She is very traditional, and speaks about as much English as I speak Setswana. She had me take many pictures of her performing traditional Setswana chores (which I will post when I can), such as repairing the garden wall with a cement made of cow dung and mud. Yes, cow dung. Traditionally, floors and walls were also made of dung, but most new houses are made with regular cement. It doesn't smell, and generally you can't even tell what it is once it's dry.
When I was preparing to come to Botswana, I read that the traditional culture was disappearing, and was disappointed not to have the "real Peace Corps experience". I really shouldn't have worried. Yes, western culture is present. When I first arrived at my host house, there was a Red Hot Chili Pepper's music video playing, and yesterday I watched the new "Night Rider" series and Botswana's version of American Idol. However, people here seem to allow western culture to be present without having it take over and replace their own ways. They listen to American music, but start dancing when a Setswana song comes on. They watch American tv shows and movies, but go out of their way to watch a comedy filmed in Botswana. They make fun of me eating Kellogg's cornflakes for breakfast, and supply me with overflowing plates full of starchy Setswana food at every meal. Food is actually a pretty big issue for me with my host family right now. I really do like most of the food, but the portions are enormous! I've been putting my leftovers in the fridge for lunch the next day, which makes for some pretty funny scenes when I reheat them. Yesterday I made an awesome soup out of my chicken, noodles, and veggies, and my host mother was horrified. Apparently soup is not big in Botswana.
Speaking of food, it's time to get home for dinner. Good night!
My mom: Kelebogile
My host mom is pretty young, maybe in her 30's, and her name means 'thank you'. She's definitely not the overly motherly, cuddly type, but I think she likes me and is happy that I'm there. She loves to dance and to help me with my homework.
My brother: Blessing
My brother is 15 years old, and he didn't speak to me for the first day or so that I was here, but he seems to have warmed up pretty quickly. I wasn't sure what to expect from a teenage Motswana, but he's a lot of fun, has good taste in music and movies, and I haven't seen any evidence of the attitude problems of a typical American teenager.
My sister: Daphney
My sister was my partner in crime the first few days I was here. As the 2 daughters, we did everything together, and she helped me through all my chores, giggling all the while. She's away at school in Gaborone now, but while she was here,it was her personal mission to make me fluent in Setswana, and spent hours going through vocabulary with me.In return, I taught her "Miss Mary Mack", which she drove the family crazy with practicing over and over again. She was very intrigued by my hair, and mystified by my hair, which she loves to touch.
My grandmother: Nonofe
My grandmother is also in Gaborone now, but while she was here, she was very sweet to me, and very concerned about my family back in the US. Her greatest wish was to meet my American mom, and she made sure to remind me to call and email her. She is very traditional, and speaks about as much English as I speak Setswana. She had me take many pictures of her performing traditional Setswana chores (which I will post when I can), such as repairing the garden wall with a cement made of cow dung and mud. Yes, cow dung. Traditionally, floors and walls were also made of dung, but most new houses are made with regular cement. It doesn't smell, and generally you can't even tell what it is once it's dry.
When I was preparing to come to Botswana, I read that the traditional culture was disappearing, and was disappointed not to have the "real Peace Corps experience". I really shouldn't have worried. Yes, western culture is present. When I first arrived at my host house, there was a Red Hot Chili Pepper's music video playing, and yesterday I watched the new "Night Rider" series and Botswana's version of American Idol. However, people here seem to allow western culture to be present without having it take over and replace their own ways. They listen to American music, but start dancing when a Setswana song comes on. They watch American tv shows and movies, but go out of their way to watch a comedy filmed in Botswana. They make fun of me eating Kellogg's cornflakes for breakfast, and supply me with overflowing plates full of starchy Setswana food at every meal. Food is actually a pretty big issue for me with my host family right now. I really do like most of the food, but the portions are enormous! I've been putting my leftovers in the fridge for lunch the next day, which makes for some pretty funny scenes when I reheat them. Yesterday I made an awesome soup out of my chicken, noodles, and veggies, and my host mother was horrified. Apparently soup is not big in Botswana.
Speaking of food, it's time to get home for dinner. Good night!
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
A Tswanalyzed Day
For any future PCV's out there (or curious family members and friends, of course):
A Day in the Life of a Peace Corps trainee
3am- woken up from vivid (possibly malaria med induced) dream by a howling rooster. (Yes. Howling is the only word for the sound he was making)
5am- wake up, wash
- feed the chickens before they attack
- eat breakfast- Kellogg's cornflakes
- pack PBJ sandwich for lunch, using a spoon to cut the bread
- gather stuff for the day
- iron shirt and skirt and get dressed
7:30am - meet Joel and Hannah in front of my house and walk to training
8am- Setswana lessons
10am- tea break
10:30am- Intro to portfolio building and evaluation session
11:30am- Setswana lessons
12:30am- Lunch break- grapes and Doritos from the supermarket
1:30pm- break into groups for field trip to meet our kgosi's (chiefs)
1:40pm- hide from the rain under a tree with my language instructor waiting for the bus to come back for us because it was too full to make it in one trip
2pm- Meet my ward's kgosi, kgosana, and village development coordinator.
Discuss HIV/AIDS issues, cultural exchange
4:30pm- walk home from the kgotla
5pm- walk to the shopping center, meet up with other volunteers
use internet cafe
6:30pm- walk home, watch TV with host brother
7:30pm- eat dinner- spaghetti, chicken, spinach, carrots, onions, and beans- very excited to see veggies (not kidding)
8pm- do homework with the help of my host family
watch tv, play with the neighbor's 3 year old
9pm- bucket bath
9:30pm- practice Setswana flash cards
10:30pm- go to bed
A Day in the Life of a Peace Corps trainee
3am- woken up from vivid (possibly malaria med induced) dream by a howling rooster. (Yes. Howling is the only word for the sound he was making)
5am- wake up, wash
- feed the chickens before they attack
- eat breakfast- Kellogg's cornflakes
- pack PBJ sandwich for lunch, using a spoon to cut the bread
- gather stuff for the day
- iron shirt and skirt and get dressed
7:30am - meet Joel and Hannah in front of my house and walk to training
8am- Setswana lessons
10am- tea break
10:30am- Intro to portfolio building and evaluation session
11:30am- Setswana lessons
12:30am- Lunch break- grapes and Doritos from the supermarket
1:30pm- break into groups for field trip to meet our kgosi's (chiefs)
1:40pm- hide from the rain under a tree with my language instructor waiting for the bus to come back for us because it was too full to make it in one trip
2pm- Meet my ward's kgosi, kgosana, and village development coordinator.
Discuss HIV/AIDS issues, cultural exchange
4:30pm- walk home from the kgotla
5pm- walk to the shopping center, meet up with other volunteers
use internet cafe
6:30pm- walk home, watch TV with host brother
7:30pm- eat dinner- spaghetti, chicken, spinach, carrots, onions, and beans- very excited to see veggies (not kidding)
8pm- do homework with the help of my host family
watch tv, play with the neighbor's 3 year old
9pm- bucket bath
9:30pm- practice Setswana flash cards
10:30pm- go to bed
Monday, April 19, 2010
A nice, long entry
I've decided to write you all a nice long blog entry, prewritten in a notebook to avoid being rushed at the internet cafe. I've only been gone for a week, but it feels like it's been years since I've really spoken to anyone-maybe because I've had so much to say. It's amazing how much life can change in a week! If this was a vacation or a short trip, I wouldn't feel any compulsion to call everyone I know just to say hello, and homesickness would be a laughable idea. But this isn't a vacation. I will be living here for the next 26 months, with very little hope of going home to visit or having anyone visit me here. I'm doing fine right now, but every day, mostly at night, I get waves of anticipatory homesickness. You can say I knew what I was getting myself into when I applied, and of course I did. I just didn't know how long 26 months would seem at the end of the first week. I can't make any promises that I can do this, and I hope that if at some point I decide that it's too much and I need to come home, that everyone who supported me in coming here will understand and not be too disappointed in me. There is absolutely no way you can prepare for this experience, and no way of knowing how you will feel until you're here. It's a daily, and sometimes hourly, decision to stay. That said, I am still excited to be here, I want to do this, I will do my best, and I have every intention of seeing this through. I went through a lot to get here, and I don't plan on giving up that easily. Right now, my goal is to make it through training. 8 weeks? Now that I can do!
Today was my third day with my host family, and my first without speaking to an American. I think I can safely say that I am starting to adjust. Being in the same room as my host family is no longer awkward, and I finally know all of their names (I'll introduce them all in my next entry). And I am an expert at bucket bathing. For those who think a description is too much information, skip this paragraph- but I know I had no idea what it was before I got here.
First, you heat a metal bucket of water over the fire outside to the perfect temperature. Then you transfer the water to your own personal bucket and bring it inside along with a plastic basin large enough to stand in. I bath (or bath, which is the verb here) in my bedroom, but others bath in the hut or in separate bathroom if they have one. I gather my soap, shampoo, conditioner, cup, toothbrush and toothpaste, place my bucket inside the basin, and then step into the basin myself. I wash with the a washcloth and my cup, then use the cup to dump water over my head so I can wash my hair. Before I had my cup, I dunked my whole head in the bucket, but the pouring works a lot better. Once my hair washed, I brush my teeth with water from my water bottle using the basin as a sink. Then I brush my hair and take out my contacts while my hands are clean. I get dressed, drag the basin to the backyard to dump it, put it away in the hut, and that's the end of the bucket bath. This happens every night, and if my host mom has her way, every morning, too. The best part is that this only uses one bucket full of water,and I feel completely clean. Imagine how many buckets of water we use to bathe or shower every day in the US!
Tomorrow (Monday) starts our real training, with intensive Setswana lessons, cultural field trips, and classes on HIV biology and behavior change strategy. Maybe it;s a bit nerdy, but I can't wait to dive in. Last week was a lot of logistics, procedures, and policy. Maybe now that we'll be getting into useful, applicable training, things will start to fall into place. I'll keep you updated!
Today was my third day with my host family, and my first without speaking to an American. I think I can safely say that I am starting to adjust. Being in the same room as my host family is no longer awkward, and I finally know all of their names (I'll introduce them all in my next entry). And I am an expert at bucket bathing. For those who think a description is too much information, skip this paragraph- but I know I had no idea what it was before I got here.
First, you heat a metal bucket of water over the fire outside to the perfect temperature. Then you transfer the water to your own personal bucket and bring it inside along with a plastic basin large enough to stand in. I bath (or bath, which is the verb here) in my bedroom, but others bath in the hut or in separate bathroom if they have one. I gather my soap, shampoo, conditioner, cup, toothbrush and toothpaste, place my bucket inside the basin, and then step into the basin myself. I wash with the a washcloth and my cup, then use the cup to dump water over my head so I can wash my hair. Before I had my cup, I dunked my whole head in the bucket, but the pouring works a lot better. Once my hair washed, I brush my teeth with water from my water bottle using the basin as a sink. Then I brush my hair and take out my contacts while my hands are clean. I get dressed, drag the basin to the backyard to dump it, put it away in the hut, and that's the end of the bucket bath. This happens every night, and if my host mom has her way, every morning, too. The best part is that this only uses one bucket full of water,and I feel completely clean. Imagine how many buckets of water we use to bathe or shower every day in the US!
Tomorrow (Monday) starts our real training, with intensive Setswana lessons, cultural field trips, and classes on HIV biology and behavior change strategy. Maybe it;s a bit nerdy, but I can't wait to dive in. Last week was a lot of logistics, procedures, and policy. Maybe now that we'll be getting into useful, applicable training, things will start to fall into place. I'll keep you updated!
Saturday, April 17, 2010
A New BotsMama
I hav finally escaped from the lodge with its American amenities and large swimming pool into the village of Molepolole, where I use an outhouse and take bucket baths, but can walk to KFC. Go figure. I'm at an internet cafe and don't have much time left (and the connection is verrrry slow), but I'll try to run through the events of the last couple days. Wednesday was a full day of training, full of Setswana lessons and vaccines, and ending with a fancy dinner with the American ambassador to Botswana and the filming of a music video. Yes, that's right, our lodge was the filming location of Slyzer's newest music video. Slyzer, in case you were wondering, is one of the most popular musicians here. Every kid knows her name. It was crazy. Thursday was our last day of training at the lodge, and we of course ended it with a celebration in the hotel bar (don't worry, we didn't get too crazy). It's amazing how close we've gotten as a group in such a short time. It sounds weird,but now that we're all living apart with different families, I'll be looking forward to our long days of training classes together.
Yesterday was one of the strangest, most exciting days of my life. We checked out of the hotel early, and met in a hall in Molepolole, where the ceremoy to match us with our host families took place. There was a LOT of singing and praying and ululating (look it up), and at the end, we all had new Bots-mamas (and dads and siblings and grandparents and cousins and so forth). When I got to my new home, I was immediately integrated into the family,and cooked dinner and washed dishes with my new 12 year old sister. I was introduced to the concepts of bucket baths and using an outhouse, which I'll talk more about later. Everyone went to sleep early,and I was left in my new room wondering what the heck I've gotten myself into. However, everyone has been very nice and welcoming, and I am much more optimistic today. And Africa is beautiful. I'll post some photos when I can (which will most likely be in 2 months when I get my laptop back).
Ok, time is up. I'll try to get back on soon!
Yesterday was one of the strangest, most exciting days of my life. We checked out of the hotel early, and met in a hall in Molepolole, where the ceremoy to match us with our host families took place. There was a LOT of singing and praying and ululating (look it up), and at the end, we all had new Bots-mamas (and dads and siblings and grandparents and cousins and so forth). When I got to my new home, I was immediately integrated into the family,and cooked dinner and washed dishes with my new 12 year old sister. I was introduced to the concepts of bucket baths and using an outhouse, which I'll talk more about later. Everyone went to sleep early,and I was left in my new room wondering what the heck I've gotten myself into. However, everyone has been very nice and welcoming, and I am much more optimistic today. And Africa is beautiful. I'll post some photos when I can (which will most likely be in 2 months when I get my laptop back).
Ok, time is up. I'll try to get back on soon!
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
Disembarkation in Africa!!
***Note: I tried to post this yesterday (Monday), but my laptop battery died. I'll update for real as soon as I can get it fully charged.***
3 hour car ride from Long Island to Philadelphia
5 hours of staging lectures and ice breakers
6 hours of no sleep and literally no room at the inn (Holiday Inn, actually)
2.5 hour bus ride from Philly to JFK, leaving at 2am
5 hours of waiting for the flight at JFK (and our flight left on time)
15 hour flight from JFK to Johannesburg, South Africa by airbus
8 hour layover in Johannesburg
45 minute flight from Johannesburg to Gaborone, South Africa
20 minute bus ride from the airport to the Big 5 Lodge, where we will be staying for the first few nights before we move in with our host families.
I think that's enough traveling for quite some time, don't you?
Anyway, Africa is great so far, beautiful weather, beautiful African sunset, and really nice people. I'll be in the lodge til Friday, hopefully I can update again before I leave!
3 hour car ride from Long Island to Philadelphia
5 hours of staging lectures and ice breakers
6 hours of no sleep and literally no room at the inn (Holiday Inn, actually)
2.5 hour bus ride from Philly to JFK, leaving at 2am
5 hours of waiting for the flight at JFK (and our flight left on time)
15 hour flight from JFK to Johannesburg, South Africa by airbus
8 hour layover in Johannesburg
45 minute flight from Johannesburg to Gaborone, South Africa
20 minute bus ride from the airport to the Big 5 Lodge, where we will be staying for the first few nights before we move in with our host families.
I think that's enough traveling for quite some time, don't you?
Anyway, Africa is great so far, beautiful weather, beautiful African sunset, and really nice people. I'll be in the lodge til Friday, hopefully I can update again before I leave!
Saturday, April 10, 2010
Packing List, Last Night Shenanigans, and Leaving New York
I am currently sitting in a hotel room in Philadelphia. The lights are out, my family is all asleep, and it's 3am, but I am wide awake and determined to get as much computer time in while I still have reliable internet. The last couple days have been a blur. Wednesday was the last day of AYM for me, which wasn't as bad as I thought it might be. We had a party, and the kids talked about school and who knows what else while Katie and Kevin and I conducted an in-depth Lost discussion, and we ended with a few words about service and a discussion about the future of the parish and youth group. After youth group, I ended up at Friendly's with my mom, her best friend, one of their friends, and my aunt, and some goodbyes were said. Thursday involved a lot of shopping and running around, and I honestly don't remember a lot of it. I do remember that I spent a good portion of a family dinner in the parking lot of Chili's, mainly because the choice between a caesar salad or a chicken sandwich was obviously cause for immediate, uncontrollable sobbing and semi-hysterical phone calls to amazingly understanding friends. It's funny, dinner choice has never been so emotional before! Thursday ended (and Friday began) with a 3 bar extravaganza with Dawn, a friend since elementary school days, and my brother Kevin. Many drinks, some dancing, and what I'm convinced were totally awesome karaoke renditions of "Hey Jude" and Alanis Morissette's "Uninvited" were involved.
Friday morning came a little too soon, and I was thrown out of bed only a few hours after arriving home. Shopping, shopping, and more shopping followed, along with a goodbye lunch with my dad, and the evening ended with a packing frenzy. We finally, finally left the house at about 9:30pm, and got to Philadelphia 3 hours later- and here we are! For those wondering, the enormity of the situation still has not really hit me, despite my parking lot panic. Maybe it never will?
Anyway, it may finally be time for bed. I'll leave you with the packing list, and next time I post here, it will be from Africa!!!
Carry- On (Regular size backpack)
Laptop
Scrapbook
Wallet
Skirt
Dress shirt
Change of underwear/socks
Medication (Exedrin, Immodium, Motrin, Benadryl)
Ipod with wire
Extra flashdrives
Toothbrush
Important paperwork
Cell phone
Glasses/ contact case
Singulair/ Inhaler
Digital camera with wire
Address book
Dayplanner
Journal/ Quotebook
Rolling Duffel Bag (Training)
Sleeping Bag
Skirt
Khakis
Socks
Underwear/Bras
Short sleeve blouses
Long sleeve shirt
Shoes (Keen, flats)
Flip-flops
Alarm clock
Debrox
Notebook
Pens/Pencils
Markers/ Crayons
Index cards
Headlamp
Pajama pants
T shirt
Fleece Jacket
Leggings (for layering)
Makeup
Soap
Shampoo/ Conditioner
Toothbrush (extra)/Toothpaste
Feminine products
Rechargeable Batteries
First Aid Kit
Towel
Razor
Deodorant
Body lotion
Q tips
Bobby pins
Anti-frizz solution
Hair ties
Contact solution
Water bottle
Backpacking size backpack (For site)
Deodorant (extra)
Shampoo/conditioner (extra)
School supply type things
Duck tape
Contact solution (extra)
Body lotion (extra)
Books
– A Wrinkle in Time
– The Bible
– The Lord of the Rings
– Mere Christianity
– The Weather of the Heart
– The Alchemist
– Pride and Prejudice
Seasoning/ spices
Ziploc bags
Decorations for site
Bathing suit
Sewing kit
Can opener
Lighters
Swiss Army knife
Friday morning came a little too soon, and I was thrown out of bed only a few hours after arriving home. Shopping, shopping, and more shopping followed, along with a goodbye lunch with my dad, and the evening ended with a packing frenzy. We finally, finally left the house at about 9:30pm, and got to Philadelphia 3 hours later- and here we are! For those wondering, the enormity of the situation still has not really hit me, despite my parking lot panic. Maybe it never will?
Anyway, it may finally be time for bed. I'll leave you with the packing list, and next time I post here, it will be from Africa!!!
Carry- On (Regular size backpack)
Laptop
Scrapbook
Wallet
Skirt
Dress shirt
Change of underwear/socks
Medication (Exedrin, Immodium, Motrin, Benadryl)
Ipod with wire
Extra flashdrives
Toothbrush
Important paperwork
Cell phone
Glasses/ contact case
Singulair/ Inhaler
Digital camera with wire
Address book
Dayplanner
Journal/ Quotebook
Rolling Duffel Bag (Training)
Sleeping Bag
Skirt
Khakis
Socks
Underwear/Bras
Short sleeve blouses
Long sleeve shirt
Shoes (Keen, flats)
Flip-flops
Alarm clock
Debrox
Notebook
Pens/Pencils
Markers/ Crayons
Index cards
Headlamp
Pajama pants
T shirt
Fleece Jacket
Leggings (for layering)
Makeup
Soap
Shampoo/ Conditioner
Toothbrush (extra)/Toothpaste
Feminine products
Rechargeable Batteries
First Aid Kit
Towel
Razor
Deodorant
Body lotion
Q tips
Bobby pins
Anti-frizz solution
Hair ties
Contact solution
Water bottle
Backpacking size backpack (For site)
Deodorant (extra)
Shampoo/conditioner (extra)
School supply type things
Duck tape
Contact solution (extra)
Body lotion (extra)
Books
– A Wrinkle in Time
– The Bible
– The Lord of the Rings
– Mere Christianity
– The Weather of the Heart
– The Alchemist
– Pride and Prejudice
Seasoning/ spices
Ziploc bags
Decorations for site
Bathing suit
Sewing kit
Can opener
Lighters
Swiss Army knife
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
It's getting real!
I know I promised a packing list, but one generally has to have started packing for that to happen. And of course, being the master procrastinator that I am, I haven't started packing, nor have I even finished shopping for all my stuff. My room is a disaster, I have boxes strewn throughout my mom's basement, and I have less than 4 days. Awesome. I'm not worried though. With great procrastinating power comes great responsibility, and I have learned that I work best under pressure. It'll all get done because it has to get done, and having lunch with a friend or watching Lost and then a Yankee game instead of packing will not keep it from happening.
The goodbyes have begun for real. They started for real last Wednesday, when I spent an amazing day in New Paltz with the friends there. In 12 hours, we managed to take advantage of almost everything New Paltz has to offer, which is actually a lot for little hippie college town. I arrived at 9am, and met Kristen at the Muddy Cup for coffee (first goodbye), drove out to the Hudson Valley Lab to say goodbye to Anne and everyone there, wandered around Water Street and tried on skirts at the Himalayan store while someone woke up and got ready, and then met Megan to begin the real adventures. Megan came equipped with a broken car to be dropped off, and a to-do list that reached epic proportions. List items included:
- Tickling frogs in the waters around the abandoned cement mines of Rosendale (no swimming!)
- Attempting to break into the pretty church in Rosendale without looking suspicious
- Trespassing to get to the waterfall in High Falls, where there is also "No Swimming", just in case you were tempted to take a dip in the freezing, rocky rapids (which we totally weren't....)
- Eating lunch at the Egg's Nest, a favorite restaurant of mine with tasty food and bright, kitschy, and generally indescribable decor, while completely weirding out our waiter and setting off alarms by taking pictures of everything and reassuring him that it was okay because I am moving to Africa.
- Taking a picture of an Africa-shaped puddle, with me pointing to Botswana
-Going on a fourth grade field trip to the D&H Canal trail, historical brochure and all, and making it through all of 3 locks before losing interest and sitting and contemplating losing our shoes to the mucky depths below
- Driveby shooting of the camera variety of Mohonk Mountain
- Not getting run over when parked in the middle of a winding mountain road to take a picture of a pretty view, which was obviously okay because I'm moving to Africa
- Visiting the church in Highland and writing intentions that won't be found til about 2013
- Buying 3 skirts for a total of $7 at Salvation Army with the help of an overenthusiastic stranger
- Echoing across Lake Minnewaska with Megan and Brittany, trespassing on private property (again), not swimming (again) and rescuing Megan from the non-trail boat ramp. Don't ask.
- Learning that gravel thrown into a lake from a good height makes an awesome sound.
- Ice cream at Frosty Rock, where we met Allie, who gave up ice cream for Lent. Sorry, Allie!
- CCM meeting, where we ate pizza and learned about Haiti
After a a full and actually rather efficient day, it was finally time for goodbyes. They went pretty well, and there may have been a cake and singing and a card, and lots of hugs, but no tears. Once I got in my car to begin the 3 hour drive home, though, it hit me. I'll miss seeing New Paltz and the Hudson Valley again for a couple of years, but I said my goodbyes to them when I moved back to the island in the fall. It's the people that I will really miss, and the community that won't be there when I come back and everyone has moved on to new lives. This is what is making saying goodbye so hard. Everyone is so fragmented already, with friends in Wales and Italy and Boston and Ohio and Long Island and New Paltz and Virginia, and I know that two years is a long time. We can say that we'll all keep in touch and get together when I come back, but how realistic is that? All I can do is hope that the friendships are strong enough to last and not think about it too much.
Goodbyes have gone on from there. On Saturday, after an afternoon of crab legs and a safari in rich people territory with my sister, I met up with two friends from high school who were up visiting from Virginia, and had a wonderful night of chocolate fondue, wine, wandering around Port Jeff, and millions of questions. Katie actually wrote one of the recommendations that got me into the Peace Corps, and I'll be corresponding with Tim's social studies class through WorldWise Schools, so they're stuck with me and will have to keep in touch. No worries there. Easter brought a new batch, mostly full of relatives. It was tough to say goodbye to my grandparents. None of them have the internet, so I don't know how well we'll be able to keep in touch, and two years is a long time for them, too. We'll just have to do the best we can.
Tomorrow brings a whole new day of goodbyes, with my last night of AYM (the youth group I went through in high school and now volunteer at). My class actually thought the 24th was my last night, and all the kids made a special effort to show up, and one even brought a cake, which was very sweet of them. AYM is another thing that will be changing while I'm gone- our youth director and our pastor will be retiring in June, and no one is sure what that means for the program yet. It's been a huge part of my life and has really made me who I am today, so I am praying that it will work out and that AYM has a great future ahead of it.
After AYM, I'll be meeting my mom, my aunt, and my mom's best friend (who may as well be another aunt) for ice cream and goodbyes. Aside from my mother and grandmothers, Jeanine and Julie have really been the strongest women in my life, and I know I've been lucky to have them. They've been extremely supportive of me in everything, even though they both think I'm a little more than crazy for moving to Africa, and I'll miss them a lot.
I'll probably spend at least part of Thursday running around and trying to hit up all those people I thought I'd see by now but haven't, so if I haven't gotten to you, give me a call! I'll be leaving for Philly on Friday evening, and my mom and the kids will stay overnight at the hotel. Registration is at noon on Saturday, staging will last until around 7pm, and then at 2am Saturday night/ Sunday morning, we get on the bus to JFK. The flight leaves at 11:15am, and we arrive in South Africa 15 hours later. From there, we take an hour-long flight to Gaborone, the capital of Botswana, and then a bus to a lodge there, where we will spend a few days of orientation. Then we move into our host family housing and begin 3 months of training!
For anyone wanting to send me mail (and please, please, please do!!), here is my address:
Melissa Berger
US Peace Corps
Private Bag 00243
Gaborone, Botswana
This address will only be good for a month or two, so look out for updates. Mail generally takes a few weeks, so if you were to send something today, I would get it sometime around the middle of the month.
Thanks for reading this whole thing if you're still with me, and I promise the packing list soon!
The goodbyes have begun for real. They started for real last Wednesday, when I spent an amazing day in New Paltz with the friends there. In 12 hours, we managed to take advantage of almost everything New Paltz has to offer, which is actually a lot for little hippie college town. I arrived at 9am, and met Kristen at the Muddy Cup for coffee (first goodbye), drove out to the Hudson Valley Lab to say goodbye to Anne and everyone there, wandered around Water Street and tried on skirts at the Himalayan store while someone woke up and got ready, and then met Megan to begin the real adventures. Megan came equipped with a broken car to be dropped off, and a to-do list that reached epic proportions. List items included:
- Tickling frogs in the waters around the abandoned cement mines of Rosendale (no swimming!)
- Attempting to break into the pretty church in Rosendale without looking suspicious
- Taking a picture of an Africa-shaped puddle, with me pointing to Botswana
- Driveby shooting of the camera variety of Mohonk Mountain
- Not getting run over when parked in the middle of a winding mountain road to take a picture of a pretty view, which was obviously okay because I'm moving to Africa
- Visiting the church in Highland and writing intentions that won't be found til about 2013
- Buying 3 skirts for a total of $7 at Salvation Army with the help of an overenthusiastic stranger
- Echoing across Lake Minnewaska with Megan and Brittany, trespassing on private property (again), not swimming (again) and rescuing Megan from the non-trail boat ramp. Don't ask.
- Learning that gravel thrown into a lake from a good height makes an awesome sound.
- Ice cream at Frosty Rock, where we met Allie, who gave up ice cream for Lent. Sorry, Allie!
- CCM meeting, where we ate pizza and learned about Haiti
After a a full and actually rather efficient day, it was finally time for goodbyes. They went pretty well, and there may have been a cake and singing and a card, and lots of hugs, but no tears. Once I got in my car to begin the 3 hour drive home, though, it hit me. I'll miss seeing New Paltz and the Hudson Valley again for a couple of years, but I said my goodbyes to them when I moved back to the island in the fall. It's the people that I will really miss, and the community that won't be there when I come back and everyone has moved on to new lives. This is what is making saying goodbye so hard. Everyone is so fragmented already, with friends in Wales and Italy and Boston and Ohio and Long Island and New Paltz and Virginia, and I know that two years is a long time. We can say that we'll all keep in touch and get together when I come back, but how realistic is that? All I can do is hope that the friendships are strong enough to last and not think about it too much.
Goodbyes have gone on from there. On Saturday, after an afternoon of crab legs and a safari in rich people territory with my sister, I met up with two friends from high school who were up visiting from Virginia, and had a wonderful night of chocolate fondue, wine, wandering around Port Jeff, and millions of questions. Katie actually wrote one of the recommendations that got me into the Peace Corps, and I'll be corresponding with Tim's social studies class through WorldWise Schools, so they're stuck with me and will have to keep in touch. No worries there. Easter brought a new batch, mostly full of relatives. It was tough to say goodbye to my grandparents. None of them have the internet, so I don't know how well we'll be able to keep in touch, and two years is a long time for them, too. We'll just have to do the best we can.
Tomorrow brings a whole new day of goodbyes, with my last night of AYM (the youth group I went through in high school and now volunteer at). My class actually thought the 24th was my last night, and all the kids made a special effort to show up, and one even brought a cake, which was very sweet of them. AYM is another thing that will be changing while I'm gone- our youth director and our pastor will be retiring in June, and no one is sure what that means for the program yet. It's been a huge part of my life and has really made me who I am today, so I am praying that it will work out and that AYM has a great future ahead of it.
After AYM, I'll be meeting my mom, my aunt, and my mom's best friend (who may as well be another aunt) for ice cream and goodbyes. Aside from my mother and grandmothers, Jeanine and Julie have really been the strongest women in my life, and I know I've been lucky to have them. They've been extremely supportive of me in everything, even though they both think I'm a little more than crazy for moving to Africa, and I'll miss them a lot.
I'll probably spend at least part of Thursday running around and trying to hit up all those people I thought I'd see by now but haven't, so if I haven't gotten to you, give me a call! I'll be leaving for Philly on Friday evening, and my mom and the kids will stay overnight at the hotel. Registration is at noon on Saturday, staging will last until around 7pm, and then at 2am Saturday night/ Sunday morning, we get on the bus to JFK. The flight leaves at 11:15am, and we arrive in South Africa 15 hours later. From there, we take an hour-long flight to Gaborone, the capital of Botswana, and then a bus to a lodge there, where we will spend a few days of orientation. Then we move into our host family housing and begin 3 months of training!
For anyone wanting to send me mail (and please, please, please do!!), here is my address:
Melissa Berger
US Peace Corps
Private Bag 00243
Gaborone, Botswana
This address will only be good for a month or two, so look out for updates. Mail generally takes a few weeks, so if you were to send something today, I would get it sometime around the middle of the month.
Thanks for reading this whole thing if you're still with me, and I promise the packing list soon!
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