Happiness is a Hot Shower

written 6/27

I am clean, for the first time in months! My hair is washed and conditioned, I smell like soap, and I have discovered that I am not quite as tan as I thought I was- apparently it was all dirt. I have taken a hot shower (two in fact, in the last 24 hours), and all is again right with the world. This shower comes courtesy of a lovely ear infection that I have been battling for since Thursday. I started antibiotics on Friday, but when I discovered swelling by my jaw on Saturday, the Peace Corps doctor thought it best for me to head down to the Peace Corps office in Gaborone so he could take a look. I didn't argue. One combi, 2 hours on a bus, and an overpriced cab ride later, I made it to Gabs, where the doctor checked me out, declared my ear infection official, gave me some better medications, and sent me off for a free night at a local lodge, since it was too late to head back home to Mahalapye. Before heading to the lodge, I indulged in some American-style fast food at a chain called 'Wimpy's' and grabbed some snacks for the night ahead. The lodge took some finding- I really hate trying to get places in Gaborone. I complain about Mahalapye being big, but Gaborone makes it look absolutely quaint, and after this weekend, I have new appreciation for my home village, despite its lack of hot showers. Anyway, I stayed at Kgale View Lodge, which was tucked away across from the enormous Game City mall. It had very pretty landscaping, outdoor picnic tables, a pool (closed for the 'winter'), and a reception area and dining hall tastefully decorated in a safari theme (of course). My room was small but clean, and the bed was incredibly warm and comfortable, there was a heater I could control, and there was a television with 4 whole channels! I spent the night taking an hour-long hot shower, eating VitaSnack cheddar flavored rice crackers (more addicting than they sound), and watching many episodes of 'Monk' and some South African family drama called 'Wild Hearts' (or something like that).

I woke up in time for the free breakfast, but decided that a second shower was obviously more pressing than mediocre hotel food, and spent the morning getting cleaner than I've been in a long time and watching some police and courtroom dramas. Eventually they kicked me out (really, they came to the room and everything- apparently check-out times are earlier here than they are in the US), so I turned in my key and set up camp in the dining hall to use the wireless internet, where I stressed about the status of my student loans for far too long, while cursing facebook's new photo uploader feature, which decided to take a day off. Finally I realized that I still had to travel at least 3 hours before sunset, and I was on my way. I walked around and around the perimeter of the Game City Mall, reaching dangerous levels of frustration, until finding the corner of the parking lot where all the combis were hiding. I found and hopped on the correct one, and made my way to the bus rank, where I found a bus home pretty quickly. The bus rank in Gaborone is big, and very busy and chaotic, but it's actually pretty easy to navigate once you get the hang of it. The taxis and combis generally stay on one side, and the buses line up in rows on the other side. Each row is marked with a sign that tells which city the buses in the row are headed toward. The buses line up, and passengers are herded onto the first bus in line. When that bus is full, it leaves, and the next bus pulls up to begin boarding. There's no real schedule, buses just leave when they're full. This could be a pain if you're going to some remote place that not many people go to, but my village is directly between the two largest cities in Botswana, so I'll almost never be stuck waiting and waiting for a bus to show up or fill up. The bus was empty when I boarded, but within 10 minutes it was overflowing, and we were on our way. I guess I timed the day perfectly- I made it home about 5 minutes before sunset. Now I am wishing for yet another hot shower, and wondering why no one every told me how loud the wind can be at night here. It's whipping around my house, making it groan and creak with every gust. Not only that, but a dog appeared on my compound a few days ago. This should be a good development, because dogs here usually provide extra security, but this one won't shut up. It barks and barks constantly, with no provocation or reason at all. It may be a long night.

Lesson of the day: If you don't want random heads and appendages to pop in through your window and directly into your face trying to sell you things or ask you for money, be sure to close the window next to your seat tightly any time the bus is parked. I had a floating head try to sell me water today, and when I told it I wasn't thirsty, it insisted that I should give it 5 pula anyway, as a favor. I declined. Rather pushy for a floating head, I thought.